Dying a leather jacket is easy. In this video, cobbler and artist Teri Edmonds covers 4 easy steps to reviving an old black leather jacket. All products can be purchased from the links below to complete the jacket restoration just like a professional.
Step 1 – Patch and Condition
The best outcome of this project relies on good material preparation. In this step, check for holes or areas that need a thin leather patch from the inside. If a hole exists, use a soft, thin, leather. The patch is glued using contact cement. Press the glued side of the leather patch to the hole and let it dry for 20 minutes. It is recommended that the patch be dyed prior to glueing. If not dyed first, the glued area won’t allow the color of the dye to seep through.
After the patching, apply The Lincoln Boot And Shoe Care. Use a soft cloth and liberally apply the conditioner all over the leather and let dry. If the leather is extremely dry, use another coat until the suppleness of the leather returns.
Step 2 – Apply the Dye
Use Lincoln Leather Dye and a 2″ paint brush to apply the dye to the leather. Thick strokes look better on large panels of leather. The small daubers can leave small streaks and are hard to cover up on large panels. Start anywhere on the coat leaving plenty of room on the workspace counter to move the jacket around.
Step 3 – Condition Again
Liberally apply one more coat of the Lincoln Boot and Shoe Care all over the jacket and let dry.
Step 4 – Touch Up Paint
Angelus leather paints are a great way to touch up imperfections in the leather that the dye won’t cover. Using a blending technique, carefully touch up areas.
Stretching shoes is so easy to do that you can even do it at home! The following shoe stretching items make the job easy. The tutorial video included below with walk you through each step.
5 tips to Stretching your own shoes at home:
- Water, ziploc bag and freezer method – using a small ziploc bag, add water and close the bag tightly. Fit the Ziploc bag into the shoe where you are intending to stretch it. Once firmly in place, put the shoe in the freezer overnight. The water will expand as it freezes which will stretch the shoe. This method is simple and will create a gentle stretch. This technique is not recommended for genuine leather goods.
- Blowdryer/Heat gun method – This technique looks simple and yes, sometimes it is simple. It works best on synthetic shoes because the plastic warms up and can be manipulated. This technique should only be used if you feel confident in your application. Using the heat source of your choice, warm the shoe gently by keeping the heat source at least 12 inches away. Check the material as you go so that it doesn’t melt or over-stretch.
- Shoe stretcher method – Using a stretcher is my favorite process. It is very easy to do. Shoe stretchers come in various sizes and styles. There are some that stretch just the width and some stretch width and length at the same time. My favorite stretchers are wood and have an iron, or metal, handle. Most of the shoe stretchers come with attachments to treat the shoe in areas that are the most sore, such as bunyons.
- Have shoes professionally stretched – It is helpful to pay a professional to stretch your shoes if you have really troubled foot issues. A professional can help with bunyons, hammer toes and instep stretching.
- Maintain ideal shoe shape – Once you have stretched the shoe to your liking, add a cedar shoe tree to keep the shape of the shoe.
How to Dye Shoes Two Colors
This tutorial will show how to dye shoes two colors. A white dyeable fabric wedding shoe will be made over to match a dress. The theme of the garment is ivory with black polka dots as the top and a black base. The shoe will be dyed ivory and black and will be dressed with black Hot Fix Swarovski rhinestones.
Step 1 – Dye base ivory color and let dry completely overnight. Using the wool dauber, apply the ivory dye in a consistent motion until the entire shoe is covered in dye. Let the pair of shoes stand approximately 24 hours before applying the black dye.
Step 2 – Dye trim black. Three main tools to use are Q-tips, a small wool dauber and a small xPassion paint brush. Holding the shoe upside down, first apply black dye with a small Q-tip. The edge where color 1 and color 2 meet is the place to be most diligent. Dye has a tendency to bleed so practice with a sample material to see how much and how far. Use this information to determine how far from the edge your instrument should be.
Next, using the small wool dauber, apply a small amount of black to fill in the rest of the material to be dyed. Take care to apply the dye minimally with the dauber to avoid over wetting the material.
Finally, let shoes dry for a few hours. Overnight is best to ensure a completely dry shoe.
Step 3 – Apply Hot Fix Swarovski rhinestones. Pre-heat rhinestone applicator. Press applicator over the top of a rhinestone and wait until the glue melts. Then place the rhinestone in the desired spot. Remove applicator. It is helpful to think through a rhinestone patter before applying the rhinestones to create a clean, consistent pattern.
Birkenstock shoe repair made easy!
In this video you will see the four steps used to restore a Birkenstock. The four steps include disassembly, sole preparation, glue/assembly and finishing work (luxury shine and condition).
Step 1 – Disassemble:
The first step in disassembly, is to remove the sole. This can be easy or very hard. A set of nippers is the best tool to use. Grab a piece of the Birkenstock soling material and pull apart. If the sole does not come off easily, use a little bit of thinner on the seam between the rubber and the cork. A flathead screwdriver is also helpful when separating the materials.
Step 2 – Sole Preparation:
Sole preparation includes building up the cork foot bed anywhere that the cork has been worn off. Using pieces of cork sheeting, glue individual layers with contact cement onto the worn areas. It is important to let the glue dry 10-15 minutes for each layer. This will ensure adhesion. When the layers are thick enough, use a razor knife to trim excess cork around the sides. Finally, use a heavy-grit sand paper to even the cork to allow for the sole to lie flat.
Step 3 – Glue Soles/Assembly
Gluing the soles also includes gluing the straps to the sides of the cork footbed. Unbuckle the straps first and apply the glue to the same place it was glued before. This may seem obvious but it is trickier than most expect. Take your time. Wait 15 minutes for the glue to set up before pushing the straps together.
Once the straps are finished, apply glue to the sole and to the cork bottom. Apply the glue with even strokes and make sure to cover each surface completely to avoid touching up the glue later, it is more difficult. Wait 20 minutes for the glue to dry. Apply the sole to the cork footbed and make sure all edges have touched and that you have a good seal.
Step 4 – Finish/Polish
Using a soft rag and Cadillac Boot and Shoe care, apply a thin layer of conditioner and let sit for 5 minutes. Next, apply shoe cream to all leather surfaces. After the shoe cream, apply a thin layer of Lincoln Stain Wax. Finally, buff the leather with a brush or terrycloth towel to remove excess wax and bring out the luster in the leather.
The last step in the finish work is to add Cork Renew to the exposed cork and let dry for 20 minutes.
Congratulations! You have repaired your Birkenstock!
In this gluing tutorial you will learn the four basic steps to glue most types of shoes. This video starts with a list of tools and supplies used in most gluing. The rest of the video highlights the four basic steps to gluing shoes. Cobbler Teri Edmonds demonstrates these four basic steps and provides links to additional videos that address the different types of shoes that fall into 3 main categories. The linked video tutorials demonstrate an Air Jordan, Birkenstock clog, a basic flat and a sneaker with a wrap around sole. All supplies can be purchase easily by clicking the Amazon links below.
Step 1 – Disassemble the shoe
Step 2 – Sand surface of sole and shoe
Step 3 – Apply glue to both surfaces and let dry for 20 minutes. If the shoe is of a molded sole construction, meaning the sole wraps along the sides of the upper, you will want to put the shoe together wet.
Step 4 – Assemble the shoe starting with the toes and the heels. Once you have confirmed that the front and back match properly, you can assemble the rest of the shoe.
Buying supplies – The products recommended here have been selected by cobbler Teri Edmonds for all levels of shoemakers. A respirator is recommended even if the room has good ventilation. The oil can is a very handy tool for all workshops. The glue doesn’t dry out and makes getting into the small areas, easier. A screwdriver on hand is useful for prying materials apart. Using a rough grit sandpaper also allows for the easy removal of old glue or paint that is peeling from the upper. The best paint to buy for touch up purposes is the Angeles.